The nail boom: the dangers of overdoing it with semi-permanent and gel manicures

In every neighborhood, nail salons are multiplying , reflecting a trend that goes far beyond aesthetics. The nail salon boom isn't just a fad; it reveals a complex web of emotional, social, and medical meanings. What's behind this phenomenon? Is it just vanity or also a form of self-care? What health risks does it pose?

In Liv Strömquist's graphic essay, "The Hall of Mirrors," the Swedish artist invites us to reflect on the image dictatorship we currently experience. "The worst thing about beauty is that we relentlessly pursue it, and then, once we have it, we quickly lose it. For example, eating will make me gain weight, breathing will make me age." Getting your nails done is similar, but it usually takes a week.

"Manicure can be much more than a matter of aesthetics," says Marta Calderero, PhD in Health Psychology and a specialist in self-image. "For many people, it's an intimate gesture of self-care, a way to connect with their body, express their identity, or even regain a sense of presence and control." From her clinical experience, Calderero observes how these small rituals can become anchors of emotional stability. "Taking care of your nails, like combing your hair or applying cream, can be a ritual of emotional self-regulation . It helps calm the mind, reduces anxiety, and strengthens the bond with oneself."

Dr. Susana Garrido García, a psycho-oncologist at the Clara Campal Comprehensive Oncology Center (CIOCC) at HM Hospitals in Sanchinarro, agrees: "Nail beautification can be a ritual that reinforces personal image, generates well-being, and helps reduce stress. It's a moment you dedicate to yourself, in which you connect with yourself and your thoughts." However, both psychologists warn that this gesture can have two sides. "We live in a culture where personal image has become a constant calling card," Calderero points out. "When aesthetics are experienced as an obligation, as a demand to always be 'on top,' what could be self-care becomes self-demand ." Garrido sums it up this way: "The key is motivation. If you do it out of your own desire, the result will be positive. But if you do it out of external pressure, it can generate discomfort and even internal conflict."

Curiously, nails escape many of the most common aesthetic pressures. They're immune to wrinkles, excess weight, or weight loss, and tend to remain an accessible and appreciated area of ​​aesthetic expression. "It's not uncommon for even many men to like well-groomed nails on women, because they convey attention, style, and presence without the need for great artifice," says Garrido. In particularly delicate situations, such as cancer, nail care takes on an even deeper value. "Not only does it help preserve a recognizable image," explains Calderero, "but it offers an intimate space where the person can feel present, connected to themselves and their personal style." Garrido adds: "When you go to get your nails done with friends, you're in a fun environment, doing something for yourself. This promotes the emergence of pleasant emotions and strengthens emotional bonds."

But it's not all wellness. From the dermatology field, Dr. Nayra Patricia Merino de Paz, a specialist at Dermamedicin, and Dr. Virginia Sánchez García, a dermatologist at HM Hospitales, warn about the risks of frequent use of semi-permanent or gel nail polishes , especially for people with sensitive skin or conditions such as psoriasis or atopic dermatitis . "These nail polishes can cause allergic contact dermatitis, especially due to the acrylates ," explains Merino de Paz. "Furthermore, for people with psoriasis, covering the nails can be counterproductive, as it prevents beneficial treatments such as sun exposure."

"Repeated manipulation can aggravate nail fragility. And the problems can even extend to the face in professionals who handle these products daily," adds Sánchez García. Both dermatologists also warn about the harsh solvents used to remove nail polish. " Acetone dehydrates the nail, makes it more brittle, and can irritate the surrounding skin," notes Sánchez García. "This can lead to cracking, peeling, or infection if there are previous injuries."

In semi-permanent manicures, one of the steps is polishing the nails with a nail file . "All the manipulation of the nail plate before and after the manicure weakens it and can lead to splinter hemorrhages and fracture lines," warns Dr. Merino de Paz. And what about the myth that nails need to "breathe"? "It's false," they both agree. "Nails don't breathe, but it's advisable to let them rest to regain their natural hydration."

In fact, having your nails painted for a long time, says Dr. Merino de Paz, "can lead to the appearance of spots on the nails , known as keratin granulomas, which are sometimes confused with fungi, but are lesions caused by dehydration and weakness of the nail due to keratin accumulation."

A poorly performed manicure can also cause micro-wounds that lead to infections or allergic reactions. " Cuticle trimming , improper handling of hangnails, or the use of irritating products can break the nail's natural protective barrier," explains Merino de Paz. "The cuticle protects the nail matrix. It shouldn't be removed, but rather cared for and hydrated." Sánchez García adds: "Cutting or pushing it back excessively can cause inflammation, infections, and even permanent deformities."

Among the chemical components to avoid, both mention formaldehyde, acrylates, toluene, and phthalates . "It's recommended to opt for products labeled ' 5-free ' or ' 7-free ,' which exclude these ingredients," advises Sánchez García.

Another controversial point regarding semi-permanent manicures and gel nails is the use of UV drying lamps . "If used frequently and using UVA lamps, they can produce adverse effects on the skin, especially lentigines or brown spots and cutaneous elastosis, as well as a possible theoretical increase, not yet proven, in the risk of skin cancer in sensitive individuals," warns Dr. Merino de Paz. In her opinion, it's best to avoid them because, although the radiation duration is short, "it's a type of radiation that accumulates with solar radiation and can end up damaging the skin and worsening blemishes." In fact, she recalls, " it's recommended to use sunscreen 20 minutes before exposure, even so the nail bed receives cumulative radiation, and subungual tumors can occur." Therefore, the expert believes that the best course of action would be "to avoid these lamps and use LED lamps or let them air dry, return to traditional ones, or use a top coat that helps them dry faster."

Regarding gel nails, Dr. Merino de Paz does not generally recommend them because "they involve prior dehydration of the nail, filing, which if done excessively, weakens the nail, drying with a UV lamp, and the use of high concentrations of acrylates. They are the ones most associated with reactions," she says.

You should also make sure the salon you visit complies with hygiene regulations to avoid health problems. "Fungal infections can occur if the equipment used during manicures is not properly disinfected and sterilized, as they can spread from one client to another," the doctor points out.

From across the counter, Isabella Maia, founder of Nails Couture, is blunt: "All of our treatments prioritize health. We use products from recognized brands, experienced professionals, and strict hygiene protocols. There are many salons that charge very little and don't take care of these aspects, and that has consequences." She also observes a lack of awareness among some clients: "Many clients prioritize having their nails polished over actually caring for them. Price outweighs quality, and that leads to bad experiences. We are increasingly seeing more people coming to our salon after having had problems elsewhere."

The rise of nail salons can't be understood solely from the perspective of consumerism or fashion. "It's a phenomenon that reflects how we relate to our bodies, our image, and our emotions," concludes Calderero. And from the perspective of preventive medicine, Merino de Paz and Sánchez García agree: "Nail health is not at odds with aesthetics. But to keep them healthy, you have to be informed, choose the right products, and avoid overindulging ."