Armani and cinema: from Richard Gere in 'American Gigolo' to DiCaprio in 'The Wolf of Wall Street'

"Armani made history in the 1980s with his minimalist, tailored pieces. His now classic silhouette, with broad shoulders and a cinched waist, had just been introduced and rightly earned the label 'power suit.'" This is how actress Jessica Chastain spoke in an interview with the Financial Times about the importance the designer gained four decades ago by dressing some of the most iconic male characters in cinema. She was right on target: an Italian jacket meant sexual power, political power, economic power , social power, cultural power. Wearing Armani meant energy, drive, and command.

He proved it with his first major breakthrough: Richard Gere in American Gigolo (1980). Neither of them were particularly well-known, but the film put them both at the height of their fame. Those unstructured blazers, soft shirts, and sober palettes turned Gere into an overwhelmingly erotic symbol ; they elevated the designer to the heights of elegance.

Evil but elegant

The distinction and style were theirs, but that didn't mean the characters were, precisely, paragons of goodness. On the contrary, many of their clothes fell on the shoulders of people you'd rather not cross paths with in life.

This was the case, for example, with The Untouchables (1987) with Kevin Costner, Sean Connery, Robert De Niro and Andy Garcia and that duel between police and criminals in 1930s Chicago, a period that, moreover, amazed the designer. Or with all the mobsters he dressed in the films of Martin Scorsese , with whom he was a faithful collaborator with the costumes. He was the one who gave their good looks to Joe Pesci, Ray Liotta and (again) Robert De Niro in Goodfellas (1990), that film about the New York mafia that is one of the most legendary in the American underworld. Nor should we forget the stockbroker Jordan Belfort ( Leonardo DiCaprio ), one of the most abominable characters in cinema (and finance) - The Wolf of Wall Street (2013) - but who dressed elegantly and sophisticatedly, reflecting his ostentation. It's precisely a role that has a wardrobe that evolves over time: from the most sober to the peak where the party resonates (drugs and sex) and fancy ties, silk shirts, and tailored cuts emerge. Pure Armani Suit Power.

In Inglourious Basterds (2009) even dressed Nazis like Lieutenant Aldo Raine (Brad Pitt) in that iconic ivory tuxedo, a uniform that combines military aesthetics with a sophisticated and personal touch, highlighting the character's rebelliousness and charisma. He also wears mother-of-pearl cufflinks and the red lipstick-shaped hook in his lapel are details that add character and a distinctive style, turning the costume into a visual symbol of the film.

Other films where the Piacenza native left their mark were The Sheltering Sky (1990), that immense film about a couple, emotional emptiness, and the end... starring John Malkovich and Debra Winger. He took more inspiration from Winger, creating pieces with fluid, light lines in earth tones—white, beige, and ivory—evoking the desert and heat, but also functional yet refined garments, such as long dresses, loose shirts, wide-legged pants, and wide-brimmed hats. A blend of Western sophistication and adaptation to the arid environment.

Cadillac Man , starring Robin Williams (1990) as a car salesman, dressed by Armani in suits with modern but relaxed cuts, reflecting the chaotic and charming nature of the character. Also Ransom , starring Mel Gibson (1996) as an aviation magnate whose son is kidnapped. Of course, he is a man who dresses like someone who commands (and a lot) and that is why his clothes communicate authority, wealth and sophistication , without falling into ostentation.

The Italian designer even dressed a superhero, Batman , in The Dark Knight (2008). He was responsible for giving the millionaire Bruce Wayne ( Christian Bale ) an elegant touch with tailored, understated suits with impeccable cuts that convey power, sophistication, and discretion. They are double-breasted, pinstriped suits.

Another actor who looked perfectly suited to an Armani suit was Michael Fassbender in The Counselor (2013), where he played a lawyer wearing classic, precise cut suits made of high-quality fabrics and mostly dark, neutral tones, highlighting the contrast between the glamorous world and the darkness of the criminal business. Luxury, sophistication, power, and money. The four pillars that Armani suits represented for any type of gentleman depicted in the movies. Even those who deserved to be in jail.

Outside of film, he's also dressed stars. For example, Cate Blanchett, Jessica Chastain, Penélope Cruz, Rihanna ... and a long list of others for weddings, events, awards shows, parties... and whatever else came up.